Matter of Taste: The Barley Mow in Selmeston

DID you know that the Barley Mow, in Selmeston, reopened under new management earlier this year?

After being closed for what felt like ages, this much-loved pub has undergone a serious facelift, and we couldn’t wait to take a peek inside and see what’s changed.

If you’re curious about what it looks like now and whether it’s worth a visit, allow me to spare you any further suspense.

After several years since our last visit, one of the most memorable quirks of the place was the life-sized model of a portly chef outside. Well, for better or worse, that’s no longer there (if my memory serves me, I believe it was stolen). What awaited us this time was something far more understated and charming.

Gone is the bright, white facade—now a more modest, toned-down colour that perfectly suits the pub’s rustic charm. Even the garage across the road has undergone a makeover, which, combined with the pub’s fresh new look, made us feel like we’d stumbled upon an entirely different village.

The sweeping bend in the road hugs the Barley Mow, and as you pull into the generously sized car park, you can’t help but notice the fantastic event space out back. This is where summer happens, and you can picture long, lazy evenings here, with drinks in hand and laughter in the air.  This was my idea of heaven, and I wanted to stay here – forever.

We approached the front entrance and were greeted by the lively owner, Matthew.  It’s a fine art being a host who can balance attentiveness with giving diners the space they need to mull over their choices, and Matthew had it nailed. It wasn’t until later that I learned of his Brighton restaurateur background, which explains his flawless execution of hospitality.

As for the menu—oh, where do I start? It’s one of those rare instances where everything sounds so delicious that the process of elimination becomes impossible. We started our journey with the selection ‘For the Table.’ With choices like selected breads, butters, oils & hummus, Olives in marinade, and Salted crisps (carrot, parsnip & beetroot), we were spoilt for choice. After much deliberation, we finally settled on the Pork Chicharrones (£4.50), described as a pork crackling but on a different level. And let me tell you, it was love at first crunch. These weren’t your ordinary Chicharrons — large, golden shards of crisp pork heaven!

Moving on to the ‘Smalls’ menu, we could’ve skipped ahead to the mains, but … there was the Wild Boar Terrine (£10.50), packed with pigeon, pheasant, pistachio, and local cider chutney, it’s a dish I’d happily return for. Alongside that, we ordered the King Prawns, served with harissa, cucumber ketchup, and mango mint yoghurt. At £10.50, the prawns were succulent and perfectly spiced.

By this point, we were already feeling full, but the Classics menu was calling, and we couldn’t resist. These dishes may be labelled as classics, but each one comes with a twist that puts the ‘extra’ in extraordinary. Take the Ploughman’s, for example. Typically, you expect a square of cheese, a slice of ham, and maybe some pickle if you’re lucky. Here, they go all out with local ham & cheese, scotch egg, or local sausage—a far cry from your average Ploughman’s.

We opted for the Bavette steak (£18), served with Café de Paris butter, confit garlic, and tomato. Now, if you’ve never tried bavette, you’re in for a treat. This flank cut is known for its deep, beefy flavour and, when cooked medium-rare, it’s melt-in-the-mouth tender. To maximise its flavour, it’s sliced thinly against the grain, and the result is nothing short of excellence.

Meanwhile, the Bok Shop Super Saiyan Burger (£16) was another standout. The chicken thigh, breaded to crispy perfection and topped with miso mayo, pink pickled onions, and served in a brioche bun, was an absolute flavour bomb. If you love a good burger, this one will not disappoint.

If you’re in the mood for something even heartier, the Tomahawk Pork Chop (£24) should be on your radar. We caught sight of it as it was served to another table, and it’s the kind of dish that makes you stop in your tracks. The chop is massive—so large that it barely fits on the plate. Served with colcannon, spring greens, confit apple, and local cider jus, it’s a feast fit for royalty.

For those with smaller appetites, there are more casual options like toasted rarebit, bacon sandwiches, and hot smoked salmon sandwiches. The children’s menu is equally impressive, offering mini versions of pub favourites such as home-pressed burgers, fish and chips, chicken tenders, and penne with homemade Pomodoro.

For Dessert, although there was absolutely no need for it, we had our arms twisted to try the Lemon Tart with thyme, meringue and raspberry sorbet. It was so light and lemony, it went down a treat.

In short, the Barley Mow is back, and it’s better than ever. Whether you’re stopping in for a quick bite or a full meal, this is a pub that ticks all the boxes. Matthew’s passion and attention to detail shine through every aspect of the experience, and we can’t wait to return..

Barley Mow, Lewes Road, Selmeston
01323 811033 • www.thebarleymow.uk